A day of blisters and patches

Mile: 41.5 to 61.7

Mileage: 20.2

Day: 3

It was still dark when Richard felt the hard-packed dirt below our tent under his sleeping bag. Throughout the night, his inflatable sleeping pad had been ever so slowly shrinking beneath his weight due to a small puncture. He blew some more air into the pad and was able to get through the rest of the night. It must be a very small hole to allow for such a slow leak, he thought. 

The morning was chilly and we were reluctant to exit our sleeping bags. It was our slowest start yet; although, with an n of three, that’s not saying too much. We were hiking by 7:20 a.m. 

The terrain in the morning was calm. More pines made for ample shade as we made our way north from the Burnt Rancherio campground. 

The day’s agenda was dictated by water. The first chance to gather potable water was near mile 6. We filled up around 10 a.m. and moved into the heat of the day.

  

The desert, mom’s polka dot hat and me.

  

Richard stopped to pop two blisters on his right foot. The one on his pinky toe was impressive. 

By lunch, my feet were hot and I had a blister coming in on my right fourth toe. The residual effects of Chilblans (like a mild form of trench foot) that I developed on the Appalchian Trail, have left me with abnormally swollen fourth toes. Go figure. 

On the PCT, I guess that means those same toes are even less happy about being shoved and laced into running shoes in the desert heat. I walked on my blister until camp to give it time to heal overnight (hopefully) after popping it. We’ll see. 

After leaving our shady lunch spot, we hiked through the heat. Richard led the way, with me following about 25 feet behind. I saw him stop and look at something on the left side of the trail. He continued on after a few seconds, so I thought little of it. Moments later, I stopped and then retreated at the sound of a snake rattle. 

Curled under a low shrub, right on the trail was a six-foot rattle snake. Richard had nearly stepped on it as he walked past. When he stopped to look down at what had sounded like leaves shaking, he was already past the shrub and snake. 

I suppose it didn’t feel threatened enough to strike, and kindly slithered away. 

Our first PCT rattle snake sighting.
 

About 18 miles into our day, we stopped at a reportedly reliable water source for dinner and a refill of our water bladders. This reliable source was a metal trough of water labeled “for horses only.” 

Fortunately, the water was clear after filtering. Unfortunately, Richard had to submerge his sleeping pad in order to find the air leak. 

After a little hunting, we found the leak and marked it for patching later. 

kind of pretty, right?

Hot hot heat

Miles: 22.1 to 41.5

Mileage: 19.4

Day: 2

We woke just before sunrise, but took our time getting out of our sleeping bags, discussing our dreams. 

The night was so quiet. I don’t remember the last time I heard less. 

As soon as the sun came across the valley to our ridge, it was warm. We stopped to refill our water bladders at mile 4. We put on sunscreen and started the first climb of the day. 

My hips complained under the weight of my pack. It took me half the day to find the right fit for my pack. I couldn’t seem to please my hips or my shoulders. By 10:30 a.m. I was hot and hungry, which is code for grumpy. 

We walked until 12:30 because the trail took us up on a ridge and there was very little shade. Finally we came upon a huge live oak that provided ample shade and flat ground. We exploded our packs and ate for about an hour. Richard napped and I stretched my tight calves. 

  

With five more miles to camp, we got back on the trail just before three. And with the first gulp of water I took, I emptied my bladder. Fortunately there was a stream flowing about 1.5 miles up the trail. It was cold and clear. 

The last few miles to camp took us through classic California forest. Tall pines towered over us, creating pockets of cool, fragrant air. 

It wasn’t the longest day, but my feet were happy to be released from my shoes once we stopped for the day. 

The day ended with a dinner of mashed potatoes and we were in our sleeping bags before dark.

PCT Southern Terminus to mile 22.1

Despite feeling nervous and excited, I slept well at Scout and Frodo’s. We set the alarm for 4:45 a.m. By 5:15 we were packed and sitting down to breakfast. 

Twelve hikers loaded into three vehicles and we all headed out to the trail head just as the sun was rising. 

We made it to the Southern Terminus of the PCT just after 7 a.m. Group and individual photos were taken, register was signed. 

  

At 7:34, Richard and I broke off from the group and headed north. It was a beautiful blue-sky day, not too warm and not too cold. 

We made great time throughout the morning and stopped for lunch 12 miles in around 11:30 a.m. By that time it was starting to heat up, so we found some shade on the north side of a boulder.

We took inventory of our bodies: what hurt? what was rubbing? any blisters? 

Everything seemed maybe a little sore, but nothing to suggest we were hurting ourselves. 

I had some pain in my left big toe knuckle at different points throughout the morning, but it didn’t last. After a little bit of adjustment, my pack was fitting well with most of the weight on my hips. 

After lunch, I tried out my sunbrella. It was great. It did flip out in moments of high wind, but I learned to hang on when I felt the wind pick up. 

It was especially nice to have on the longest climb of the day around mile 15. It was in full sun at 2 p.m. when we were hiking up. Not the wisest choice in hindsight, but the grade was reasonable and under my self-made shade, I was feeling hot, yes, but not as though I couldn’t make it. 

I usually wilt in heat, but something was working right today. 

When we made it to the Lake Morena Campground at 3:45 p.m., we decided to hang out until after dinner. We spent a lovely couple of hours lying in the shade, chatting with other hikers and eating. 

After our first meal cooked on our new stove, we packed up and headed two miles up the trail to our chosen tent spot. We arrived just as the sun was setting and the desert chill started to set in. 

  

All in all, the day was a wonderful start to our PCT adventure. 

T minus 1

We’ve made it to San Diego, have been welcomed, feed and bedded by the lovely and talented Scout and Frodo, and are ready to start hiking!

Scout and Frodo thru hiked the PCT in 2007 and have been kind enough to host hikers at their home ever since. We are eternally grateful for their generosity. 

Our flights out west were pleasant enough and all our gear made it, which is the most important part. 

We decided to change out our stove at the last minute. According to Found, a former PCT and CDT thru hiker and current employee of the Pacific Crest Trail Association, the PCTA is working to discourage alcohol stove use on the trail. The drought combined with many land management regulations means that alcohol stoves are banned for hundreds of miles of the trail. And knowing when you’re crossing the border from one agency that allows alcohol stoves to one that doesn’t is hard to keep track of. Found said that it’s only a matter of time before a PCTer starts a wildfire that destroys homes and maybe ends lives. That is a risk that Richard and I are willing and capable of avoiding. 

So, we did. By buying a canister stove. 

Other than that, everything has gone smoothly. We have a warm bed to sleep in, breakfast provided in the morning, as well as a ride to the trail head. 

So far, so good. 

Richard prepares for the trail by falling asleep mid-email. Photo by Stephanie Reighart.

PCT gear

As Richard and I fly out to San Diego tomorrow to start our Pacific Crest Trail hike, I have prepared for the occasion by having my gear mostly ready.

Here’s what I’ve got planned.

Osprey Tempest 40                                                                                               2 lbs


MSR 2L titanium pot/homemade cosy/homemade pop can stove                      13.4 ounces


Crocs for camp shoes                                                                                          8.6 ounces


Women’s Thermorest Neo Air Xlite, regular length, plus stuff sack                         12.6 ounces


Telescope handsfree sunbrella                                                                              12.3 ounces


Zpacks rain poncho (doubles as a pack cover)                                                       5 ounces


Sleeping clothes (long underwear top and bottom, socks), plus stuff sack that doubles as a pillow                                                                                                            1 pound, 2.2 ounces


water bladders (capacity 4.5 L)                                                                        5.6 ounces


Mini Sawyer water filter, plus stuff sack                                                                 3.2 ounces


Montbell Plasma 1000 down jacket                                                                       3.5 ounces


Sea to Summit 35L stuff sack (pack liner)                                                               2.4 ounces


iPhone 4S in Life Proof case, 4G iPod, chargers for both, plus waterproof bag to carry them                                                                                                                  9.4 ounces


Schoon menstral cup, plus cotton storage baggy                                                     1 ounce


2 bandannas                                                                                                            1.8 ounces


Western Mountaineering Versalite 10 degree sleeping bag, plus stuff sack       2 pounds, 2 ounces


500mL Nalgene bowl with lid                                                                              2.8 ounces


Snow Peak titanium spork                                                                                    .4 ounces


sunglasses                                                                                                              .8 ounces


Fenix HL22 headlamp, plus 1 AA battery                                                                3 ounces


2 pairs Smartwool PhD Women’s Outdoor Light Micro Crew Socks                        3 ounces


2 8-ounce alcohol fuel bottles                                                                                   1.8 ounces


3 hair ties, lip balm, pocket knife, pepper spray, space pen, purell, nail clippers         3.5 ounces


TP and bag to hike out TP                                                                                         2.6 ounces


toothbrush/paste, floss, 2 small tubes Vaseline (I tend to lose these), sunscreen        6 ounces


paper/permits, notebook, pencil, eraser                                                                      3.7 ounces


Credit card, debit card, ID, cash                                                                                 .6 ounces


food stuff sacks                                                                                                            2.7 ounces


TOTAL                                                                                                          12 pounds, 3 ounces

 

Not the lightest pack, but given that this trip is the first time I’ve put any effort into lightening my load, I’ll take it!

For those of you keeping track at home, you’ll notice one pretty necessary piece of gear missing from this list: shelter. Richard is carrying the tent (Zpacks Triplex tent; 1 pound 7 ounces). To balance it out, I am carrying the stove and pot.

I will be wearing a Patagonia All Weather dress, my mom’s polka dot sun hat that she bought at the Grand Canyon in 1974 and the Exofficio Dryflylite shirt.

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Gear! Photo by Stephanie Reighart.

 

 

 

PCT food

I’ve spent the last few days prepping many many mail drops of food for our PCT hike. We tried to pack our favorite snacks and meals because sometimes, when you’re really exhausted, only the most delicious foods can tempt you to eat — even though your body is calorie deficit. 

That said, spending hours on end surrounded by my favorite foods, but unable to eat them was an interesting challenge. 

I may or may not have “ended up” with an extra candy bar or two at the end that was unassigned to any particular mail drop. And I may or may not have rewarded myself for all the preserverance and self-control with a little self-indulgance. 

  

Here is about 1,000,000 calories ready to fuel us from Mexico to Canada. Photo by Stephanie Reighart.

#TBT: Hiking the West Coast Trail

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The natural sandstone arches near the southern terminus of the West Coast Trail. Photo by Stephanie Reighart.

In college, I was a member of the OSU Mountaineers Club. We organized and led trips for rock climbing, backpacking, ice climbing, sky diving or whatever people were into or wanted to try. It was the first time I really found my community at Ohio State and I met some truly wonderful people there.

At our biweekly meetings, we encouraged members who had taken recent trips to share their photos and plant some seeds of adventure in their fellow outdoors-folk.

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A typical section of the West Coast Trail. The trail is constantly wet and, therefore, constantly being maintained. This is an older bog bridge. Photo by Stephanie Reighart.

One such trip report came from a kid named Eli. He had spent his summer hiking and backpacking in the Pacific Northwest. And one of the hikes he did was called the West Coast Trail.

Continue reading

Rim to Rim to Rim at the Grand Canyon

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The Grand Canyon. Photo by Stephanie Reighart.

Almost a year ago, Richard and I, and our friend Dan, hiked from the south rim of the Grand Canyon to the north rim and back.

The hike was awesome. And very painful.

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The only photo I took of Richard. Flattering angle, really. Photo by Stephanie Reighart.

We left camp at 5 a.m. and walked 3 miles to the trailhead. The trail we went down is called South Kaibab and you can’t park at the trailhead anymore. The 7 mile hike down only took 2 hours, so after an hour walk to the trail, we were at Phantom Ranch by 8 a.m.

Phantom Ranch is a cluster of cabins and tent sites and a store owned by the National Park Service. It is a very popular destination in the Grand Canyon and is usually booked over a year in advance. Fortunately, day users do not need a permit or reservation to visit and use the bathroom.

Technically, the three of us were using the park as “extended day users” or what the park administrators call anyone who is down in the canyon for more than daylight hours with no intention of sleeping below the rim. Our friend, Vicki, who is a ranger at the Grand Canyon, told us about this distinction. As long as you do not sleep below the canyon rim, you can spend as much time as you want down there.

Continue reading

PCT Training: An adventure in post-holing

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The reward of the slog: beautiful Colorado mountains. Always worth it. Photo by Stephanie Reighart.

As the weather in the front range of Colorado continued to warm, I planned more training hikes for the Pacific Crest Trail. I figure the more time I spend strapped into my backpack slogging up hills, the better prepared I’ll be for putting in some serious miles right off the bat.

What I discovered while hiking up above Boulder is that some trails are dry and completely free of snow, while others are sloshy messes. I decided to try a slosh-hike and made slow progress with completely wet feet. Continue reading

PCT Training: New Pack Test

When I thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail in 2009, I carried an Osprey Talon 44 the whole way. I love that pack! I still use it, regularly. I have taken it around the world as my preferred bag on flights. It is durable, generally comfortable — as long as I don’t over-pack it — and has worked well for me in many capacities. (I bought a Talon 22 in 2013 to use in adventure races.)

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My Osprey Talon 44 and I at the Maine/New Hampshire border, the last state line crossing on the Appalachian Trail. Photo by T-Toe.

My only criticism of the Talon was the frame size. When Osprey first developed the Talon, it came in two sizes: S/M and M/L. Being a 5’2″ female, I went with the smaller of the two options and ended up with a pack frame that was slightly long, but adjustable to the degree that I could live with the fit.

In preparing for the PCT, I thought back on my experience with the Talon and knew I wanted something similar, but with a better fit, if possible. I considered an ultralight pack from ZPacks or ZimmerBuilt.

When I hike, I am overly sensitive to weight on my shoulders. It causes discomfort, pain and forces me to move much slower. I need a pack with a sturdy hip belt that I can cinch down and let the pack — and its weight — be held up by my pelvis.

So, I knew a frame-less pack wasn’t for me. (Although, I hear very good things about them from other folks.) Continue reading