Stephanie Reighart

Of tailwinds and sidewinds

Day 13

Miles: 109

Miles from start: 1,053

We left Waterton Village under clear skies and with that wicked wind to our backs.

It didn’t stay at our backs all day, however. Much of the day was spent at a tilt to the south to accommodate for the strong wind.

In front of me, Richard and his bike took a five-degree slant to the south as he moved east.

We crossed back into the U.S. in the afternoon. The mountains shrank in our helmet mirrors and open rangeland spread in front.

We frightened many cows grazing along route 501. There are so many calves among them. We also saw baby scunks today. They were by the side of the road where their mother had been hit by a car.

I spent some time today annoyed at my left knee. I have developed tendinitis at the base of my medial lower quad. It’s worse on up hills, so it’s nice that all our long climbs are behind us until Vermont. However, even short, less-than-steep climbs bother it. I am taking ibuprofen and adjusting my cadence to try to take some of the stress off my knee. We’ll see if that helps enough. If not, I might replace my pedals for a pair with more float, which would let my heel move around more and help prevent overuse injuries.

We ate pizza for dinner and set up our tent at a friendly RV park.

ZERO!

Day 12

Miles: 0

Miles from start: 944

Sleep, eat, sleep, boat ride, eat, sleep, eat, shower, sleep.

That’s about how the day went. And how a zero should be, I think. Rest and energy consumption.

Breakfast was eggs Benedict at the hotel restaurant with goat cheese, tomatoes and spinach. Then a nap, followed by a boat tour on Upper Lake Waterton that took us back across the border into the U.S. for about a half-hour. Then I went back to Pearls for more soup while Richard ate mozzerella sticks at the hotel. Another nap. Walked up the hill to the Prince of Wales hotel for a dinner I stuffed myself on. It rained on the walk home so I took a hot bath and now it’s bed time.

It rained off and on all day. Tomorrow the sun should be back as we ride back to the U.S.

Pains setting in, time for a zero

Day 11

Miles: 55

Mileage from start: 944

Right now I’m sitting in a laundromat in Waterton Village, Alberta. I am eating SweetTarts and trying to write but every time I finish a SweetTart I have to set my phone down so I can peel another off the roll.

When we woke up this morning, I looked at my watch and it read 9:30. Oh well, I thought. Another late start. At least we deserve this one after such a long, hard day.

Turns out I pushed a button on my watch while I slept and it switched back to east coast time. I just won two hours! What a great way to start the day.

Being another chilly morning, we took our time and layered up before the rest of the descent to St. Mary. There I got some awful coffee, snacks for the day and made a hotel reservation for our ZERO!! We decided to bike up to Canada on the planned route then take a left to stay in Waterton Lakes National Park (the Canadian extension of Glacier).

The day stayed cool and windy all morning. After St.Mary we got a few miles of tailwind and downhill but that changed abruptly when we turned toward Canada. Richard faired well enough but I fought for each revolution of my wheels. I was beat and achy and could only think about the hot tub waiting for me in Waterton.

We frightened many many cows and had lovely views as we headed north into the wind.

Around 1 p.m. the sun came out and we got across the border just fine.

My energy draining, I pushed up the hills as best I could and Richard waited for me more than he usually has to.

Around 3:15 p.m. we made the turn off route and toward Waterton. Immediately the headwind switched from north to south and pelted us all the way to town. Turns out, the wind is a lifelong resident of this valley. The forecast at the hotel’s front desk said today’s gusts were up to 50kph. Tomorrow they’ll be 70kph. Good thing for zeroes.

After checking in we lolled in the hot tub, ate at a local cafe (if you go to Pearls Cafe, get the French onion soup!), and now I’m doing laundry.

Next, I predict showers and sleep.

Went to the sun

Day 10

Miles: 115

Mileage from start: 889

Today was the longest miles combined with the hardest hill so far.

We got started at a reasonable time for us: 8:30 a.m. It was still chilly and we delayered as the sun warmed us. After some fairly straight forward riding through horse pastures and over gravely pavement.

We made it to Whitefish in time for lunch at the Naked Noodle. We each ate two meals and then stopped at the grocery across the street for more provisions before leaving town.

From there it was another forty miles to Lake McDonald Lodge inside Glacier National Park. We got there around 5 p.m. without a reservation. We considered a zero. We considered getting up super early to cover Logan Pass. And then we decided to just ride the pass that evening and find a place to camp on the other side. The weather forecast looked like Tuesday would be a better day off than Monday anyway.

The pass was hard and long and absolutely beautiful. It took about 2.5 hours to get to the top and each foot was fought for. I was already tired before we started the climb. The evening light was lovely and it kept us warm until nearly the top.

There we put on all our layers and let gravity take us the 12 miles to Rising Sun campground where we stuffed our faces with food and collapsed into our tent.

Rounding another curve (I’m in this photo somewhere). More up!

Where’d my energy go?

Day 9

Miles: 89

Mileage from start: 774

Last night, from inside our tent, we could see the sky glow orange. We poked our heads out to catch the last of a lovely sunset.

In the morning we had another late start. We stopped for food at the grocery store in town and I got a bowl of mac and cheese from the soup bar for breakfast. We also got a pint of blueberries, a quart of strawberries and a quart of sliced watermelon. And many things with sugar.

I felt so sluggish all day. I think my quads are looking forward to the zero we’re planning as much as my brain. The sun made many appearances today as large, cotton candy clouds blew over us. Each time the sun came out, the temperature rose 15 degrees. When the clouds took over, it chilled the air substantially.

At our break Richard fell asleep when the clouds were covering the sun, and so was wearing his rain gear to keep off the chill. He woke up in full sun and full sweat. I laughed until it clouded over again and I curled into a ball to stay warm.

All day the terrain was hilly. We were always going up or down hill. Always too hot or too cold. But at least it wasn’t raining. And we got to ride through quintessential Montana: big mountains, big valleys, big lakes, big sky. It was a beautiful, if challenging, day.

We got to our campsite around 8 p.m. and we’re greeted by the campground host with the news that tonight’s stay was free! The U.S. Forest Service was having a promotional day where all their campsites were free for the night! Yay!

It’s going to be a chilly night. I can already tell.

Unto the third state

Day 8

Miles: 98

Mileage: 685

Oops! We slept through the alarm and woke at 9 a.m. It’s those comfy hotel beds plus darkened sleep curtains plus being constantly exhausted. Oh, well.

We got ourselves to breakfast — which was delicious eggs and vegetables — and packed up ready to leave around 11 a.m. Not quite the up-with-the-sun start we’d imagined but there you are.

I do think our late start allowed us to avoid some rain, which is great.

It was cloudy all day with only a couple of appearances from the sun — which is good because we’re low on sunscreen.

It’s certainly eagle country up here. We get to see one or two flying above us everyday.

Because of the late start and the general chill to the air we took very few breaks today. Only twice did we even get off our bikes on a break. All were brief and so we made it to camp in a park in Libby, MT around 8:15 p.m., including losing an hour when we crossed the time zone line. We passed into Montana around 3:30 p.m. MT.

We avoided rain for most of the day except for a few sprinkles. That made me happy as the temperatures were in the high 50s/low 60s all day which makes for cold riding when wet. It might rain tonight as we fall asleep but early evening rain in my tent is just soothing when I know I don’t have to go out in it.

Overall, my body is adjusting well to endurance riding. No major injuries or discomforts to speak of. Richard and I are getting along and looking forward to our first zero day which we plan to take in or around Glacier National Park.

Richard saves a turtle!

Day 7

Miles: 107

Mileage from start: 587

After all the rain from yesterday, it was really nice to wake up without the patter of more on our tent.

As we started our ride, the air was crisp and big gray clouds blocked most of the sunlight. With towering pines on both sides of the road, it felt like a summer morning in interior Alaska to me.

We stopped at a general store near Ione to stock up for the day. Ahead was a 50-mile stretch without resources. And, as we soon learned, with a monster head wind.

Thanks to Richard we made it through the winds. I sat on his rear tire most of the day hiding in his draft.

We passed through the Kalispel Indian Reservation and enjoyed their lovely and smooth pavement.

My hands still ring after a day on chip and seal.

A few miles into Idaho we came upon a turtle that was stopped in the middle of the right lane. Richard picked it up and took it across the road in the direction it was headed (we assume it was aiming for the river). While it didn’t thank us, it felt good to possibly prevent another smashed turtle like the ones we’d been seeing all day.

Most of the road kill so far has been snakes and birds. There’s been a couple of deer, but other then that the mammals seem to be making it across the roads.

In non-dead animal sightings, we’ve seen many birds of prey like a bald eagle that flew down the road with us carrying something furry in its talons. Once a turkey vulture put on a show riding warm air pockets over our heads for a long stretch. More than once crows have woken us at 4:30 a.m. crying about something.

We made it to Sandpoint, Idaho around 6 p.m. thoroughly tired and hungry. After grabbing a room and taking quick showers we went to a Thai restaurant for massaman curry and coconut ice cream.

Richard has fallen asleep with the map over his face.

Goodbye sun, hello rain

Day 6

Miles: 81

Mileage from start: 480

It’s a good thing I was getting tired of all that sun and heat because it’s gone!

We slept in at the hotel in Republic and didn’t get moving until after 10 a.m. The day dawned cloudy and over breakfast it started raining and thundering. Fortunately the thunder didn’t last but lingering soft rain followed us until mid-afternoon.

Sherman Pass was the big geographical feature of the day and it came just as we left town. Seventeen miles up the pass under rain, strong winds and many many logging trucks. A couple of times my front wheel lurched left, pushed by the unseen hand of the wind.

The top was hard won but eventually achieved. The rain stopped for a bit while we ate and rested at the top. Richard layered up, but all I could think of was the bottom of the hill and pizza. Plus, it honestly never occurred to me that it would rain the WHOLE way down.

It did, though.

And I got super cold. I just kept hoping the rain would stop so I could dry even slightly. But with the continuous moisture and the wind of riding downhill, I was all too happy to roll up to the pizza place, grab my dry clothes bag and run to the bathroom.

Once changed into dry things my whole outlook on life was brighter. I could bike forever!

We ordered a large veggie and stuffed breadsticks. We consulted our maps and caught up on the news. And studied the weather forecast.

It cleared up as we ate and we eventually convinced ourselves to keep moving. I changed back into my wet stuff that would dry as we rode and we got back on the route.

The rest of the evening was rolling ups and downs. The light about an hour and a half before sunset was beautiful. All the fields around us shown in gold. There were still clouds above us but they’d lightened to a soft gray and the sun shown through a slice in the western sky.

By 8:30 I was tired and done cycling for the day. We stopped at a Department of Natural Resources campsite and settled in next to a quiet creek.

We passed a prescribed burn on our way off Sherman Pass in the rain.

You guys, it’s so hottttt

Day: 5

Miles: 84

Mileage from start: 399

When I was little, mom tells me, I had a very narrow threshold for temperature comfort. Most of the time I was either too hot or too cold. I haven’t really grown out of that but at least I’ve learned to like the cold and tolerate the hot to the degree that I’ll at least keep my clothes on while it’s appropriate (as a kid I did not always follow this social norm when the temperatures rose).

These last few days have been take-your-clothes-off hot. I’ve kept my cycling garments on while biking but after that, all I can think about is getting out of my salt stiff clothes and rinse off the white layer all over my skin.

This morning we got into Omak to pick up packages and buy some food. It was more complicated than I’d hoped, but all the packages are accounted for and we actually got 3 of the 4. Pretty good.

After Omak came the winds. For 20 miles we fought our way forward. By midday we were in Toneskat supine under a shady oak. The heat plus headwind was exhausting.

But we still had a long climb to do before heading into the next town east for showers and dinner.

The incline was less steep than the day before, but I don’t think I was recovered and had to work so much harder to get up to Wacounda Pass.

It wasn’t until after 5 p.m. that any shade hit the road. We slogged up and up and up. I’m getting thirsty again just thinking about it.

The sweet sailing of downhills off a pass are usually enough to make me forget the struggle of the climb. But the pavement has been pretty killer. America paves it’s road with chip and seal, apparently. It makes for a constant jiggling. After a long stretch my hands vibrate as though they’re still gripping the shaking handlebars.

We rolled into Republic with just enough time to catch dinner at Freckles Restaurant. I had morrel mushrooms on pasta. It was awesome! And a local couple bought our meal for us! So nice.

At our hotel we washed and rinsed and cleaned.

It’s only been a few days yet but I think thrubiking is more tiring than thruhiking.

Quads are screaming so focus on the beauty

Day: 4

Miles: 100

Mileage from start: 314

We wanted an early start so we’d have a better chance of making it over the Rainy, Washington and Loup Loup passes.

So when we started at 7:20 it was chilly. As we climbed higher, it was still warm enough to get soaked in sweat, but not unbearable once we stopped moving.

The climbs were sunny and we passed rushing waterfalls, which jolted us with chill air as we scooched past at 6 m.p.h. The inclines were around 5 and 6 percent, not terrible on their own but after 20 miles it took a lot of energy to make it up. So to ignore my legs, I looked around.

The northern cascades are beautiful. Craggy ridges, still snow covered, layered on for miles. The wet pines and cedars made the air smell like the New Hampshire woods that I love.

At the top of Rainy Pass we took a photo. That’s a spot we’ll see again later this summer when we pass through as hikers on the PCT headed to Canada.

The descent off Washington Pass was fun for the first handful of miles. Once we’d dropped down into the valley the whole landscape changed. And all of a sudden we were riding into a hot headwind that felt like exercising under a hair dryer. That rain shadow business is no joke!

No more winter in June, the valley between Washington and Loup Loup passes is dry and fried. They had wild fires last summer that still make the air smell charred.

We stopped for lunch in Mazama and over ate. The next 20 miles were intestinally painful for me while my body tried to digest food and push blood to my legs. Eventually things worked out and the climb up to Loup Loup Pass was everything I expected it to be: hot, long and beautiful.

Not often do I consider 90 degrees to feel refreshing, but today was one of those days. In Mazama, we ate in 93 degree heat. By the end of the descent, 20 miles later, it was 100 degrees. So by the time we got back up above 3500 feet, 90 felt great. It looks like we have at least one more day of unseasonable heat before things in this area drop down to their normal 70s.

Tonight I am laying next to my sleeping bag rather than in it.